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卷三·兰雪茶

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气

，

yú

余

xì

戏

hū

呼

zhī

之

“

lán

兰

xuě

雪

。

sì

四

wǔ

五

nián

年

hòu

后

“

lán

兰

xuě

雪

chá

茶

”

yī

一

hǒng

哄

rú

如

shì

市

yān

焉

。

yuè

越

zhī

之

hào

好

shì

事

zhě

者

bù

不

shí

食

sōng

松

luó

萝

，

zhǐ

止

shí

食

lán

兰

xuě

雪

。

lán

兰

xuě

雪

zé

则

shí

食

，

yǐ

以

sōng

松

luó

萝

ér

而

zuǎn

纂

lán

兰

xuě

雪

zhě

者

yì

亦

shí

食

，

gài

盖

sōng

松

luó

萝

biǎn

贬

shēng

声

jià

价

fǔ

俯

jiù

就

lán

兰

xuě

雪

，

cóng

从

sú

俗

yě

也

。

nǎi

乃

jìn

近

rì

日

huī

徽

shè

歙

jiān

间

sōng

松

luó

萝

yì

亦

míng

名

lán

兰

xuě

雪

，

xiàng

向

yǐ

以

sōng

松

luó

萝

míng

名

zhě

者

，

fēng

封

miàn

面

xì

系

huàn

换

，

zé

则

yòu

又

qí

奇

yǐ

矣

。

日铸者，越王铸剑地也。
茶味棱棱，有金石之气。
欧阳永叔曰：“两浙之茶，日铸第一。
”王龟龄曰：“龙山瑞草，日铸雪芽。
”日铸名起此。
京师茶客，有茶则至，意不在雪芽也。
而雪芽利之，一如京茶式，不敢独异。
三峨叔知松萝焙法，取瑞草试之，香扑冽。
余曰：“瑞草固佳，汉武帝食露盘，无补多欲；日铸茶薮，‘牛虽瘠愤于豚上’也。
”遂募歙人入日铸。
扚法、掐法、挪法、撒法、扇法、炒法、焙法、藏法，一如松萝。
他泉瀹之，香气不出，煮禊泉，投以小罐，则香太浓郁。
杂入茉莉，再三较量，用敞口瓷瓯淡放之，候其冷；以旋滚汤冲泻之，色如竹箨方解，绿粉初匀；又如山窗初曙，透纸黎光。
取清妃白，倾向素瓷，真如百茎素兰同雪涛并泻也。
雪芽得其色矣，未得其气，余戏呼之“兰雪”。
四五年后，“兰雪茶”一哄如市焉。
越之好事者不食松萝，止食兰雪。
兰雪则食，以松萝而纂兰雪者亦食，盖松萝贬声价俯就兰雪，从俗也。
乃近日徽歙间松萝亦名兰雪，向以松萝名者，封面系换，则又奇矣。

卷三·兰雪茶

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